Nappy Holder sewing tutorial

Hello everyone, sorry I haven’t added a new tutorial sooner but I hope you like this one. This was requested by a customer after visiting me at a craft stall I did and they saw these on my stall. They are really easy to make and once you have made one they really do take less than half an hour to make one up. And, although it’s a tutorial for a nappy holder, it could just as easily be a clutch bag (would just need to be stiffer).


You will need

1 x outer fat quarter of fabric

1 x inner fat quarter of fabric


Bias binding




This really is a great little thing to make and makes such a great gift to anyone expecting or that already have little ones.  This is basically a bigger version of my tea bag holder tutorial.

Firstly I picked my 2 fat quarters and binding

You then need to give your fabric a quick press and then measure 12 inches across the width of the fabric.  You will use the whole length of the fabric so you only have to cut one measurement.


Next cut you wadding to the same size (roughly) as your fabric.  You don’t need to be perfect here as you can trim after you start to add the binding.

Next cut your 1st piece of binding to just over 12” so you’re ready to sew.  You need to place your inner fabric front down, then your wadding and place your outer fabric face up.


Before I add this first piece of binding, I do a baste stitch at the very edge of what is the bottom piece of fabric, just to secure the wadding.


Nest sew your pre cut piece of binding along the bottom edge of your fabric (where you have done your baste stitch) and sew along the fold of the binding.


Trim off anything that might be sticking out to far and then fold over and stitch so your binding is secure and finished.  You can pin of you like but I like to ba able to move the binding if needed to cover the fabric.


Next you need to fold up the bottom part of fabric (where you have just placed the binding) roughly 6 inches. Try and smooth the fabric out so that it all sits flat and even.  You may find you have bits of wadding sticking out but you don’t need to worry about that until you have started your next piece of binding.



Next you need to round off the top edges to make a lovely curved top.  Again, this doesn’t have to be perfect as it will all look lovely when the binding is added.


You then need to cut your next piece of binding to about 1m, fold up one end slightly, so that there is not fraying, and place on the corner of one of the folded up edges.

Next job is to sew all around the large piece of binding, again in the fold of the binding and finish off the corner as you started on the opposite side by folding the binding over.




Now you will find you have some bits you need to chop off so that the binding goes over the raw edges nicely.  Especially needed where the wadding is folded over twice.


Next you need to finish off the other side of the binding and again I like to keep the binding loose so I can manoeuvre over the fabric as I go (and also it keeps it free for if I need to cut off any other bits that need to go)


Your almost done


Next you need to add your fastening.  I have done Velcro here but you could just as easily add a button and use the button hole function on your machine (I always do the button hole on some scrap fabric before I put it on to the final thing)

Cut about a 2 inch piece of 1inch wide Velcro and place about an inch done form the binding and sew into place. This can be a bit tricky on the bottom section so you may want to pin into place 1st.


That’s it! You’re done

You could finish off with a quick press and maybe add a pack of wipes in there so its ready to go if its for a gift

Hope its comes in handy, let me know what you think Continue reading


Work Top Protector/Pan Placemat

Hey everyone, did you watch the #Great British Sewing Bee?  I have to say I enjoyed it  and think there will be a lot more pressure on those guys as it goes on so good luck to those lovely contestants.

Anyway, on with the tutorial.

I always find I could do with more places to put pans on my work tops and yet I only have one mat to put all my pans, trays etc as they come from the oven/hob.  Why I have not got round to getting more, I have no idea but I’m pretty glad I didn’t after making these super quick and personal ones today.


You will need

Fabric (at least 2 contrasting pieces)

Insulated wadding





Fistly cut your wadding, I cut mine approx 18cmx18cm.  Next place you wadding over your fabric and cut around so you get the same shape. I used this Michael Miller and this Riley Blake You could pin the fabric if you did’nt feel confident to cut free hand round the wadding.  I also cut a short length if ribbon which will be used to hand up the protector when its not being used.


Next step is to place the ribbon in the center front of you fabric, front or back (it wont matter when you have done) with the raw edge of ribbon up to the edge of the fabric and pin in place.


Next make a sandwich with you two pieces of fabric and wadding.  You should have your wadding at the bottom, then one fabric right side up and the other fabric face down.


 You will need to pin these layers in place as its quite slippy with the wadding . You can use a lot more pins if need to.


Next, simply sew around the fabric leaving a small gap so you can to it the right way round.


Then snip off the corners so that the corners are nicer when you turn the right way out.


Now you can turn your mat the right way through the small gap you left when stitching

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And then you can press you mat, once you have pointed out your corners.  I use the iron here to fold in the fabric from the gap so its nice and neat when we do a top stitch to close up the gap.

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Next step is to stitch all the way around your mat.  Try and use the edge of the fabric to guide you machine foot to give you a straight line.

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Thread your threads thorugh and snip so you have a neat finish and thats it your done.


You want to do something a little more fancy then why not chose a different shape.  Same instructions as before.


This is one that I have done, I suppose you would say, quilting.  Obviously I havent finished the threads here.

Here is one with a little more thread work but then you have a lot more finishing off to do but it gives a great look.  Here I have used a lime green to pick out the colour from the fabric

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So you can make this as plain or as fancy as you like.  You could do a bit of modern patchwork, just 2 simple fabrics like I did for the main tutorial or go as crazy as you like with cotton to make a fab design.

If you’re a beginner then this would be a great started project for you.

Top tips

Use your machine foot edge to help you sew a straight line.

Use your iron help you get a straight edge that can help you sew a straight line.

Snip the corners so that when you turn your project the right way you get a better corner.

Thanks for taking the time to read the tutorial, hope you enjoy it.

P x

Pretty little tea bag holder sewing tutorial


This tutorial has come about because I have started to drink decaf tea and so carry tea bags in a rubbish plastic bag, not a good look 😉

Why not make a pretty little tea bag holder that will fit nicely into my bag I thought.  So here it is.

You will need:





Contrasting fabric

Vanishing pen

Lamifix (optional)



Bias Binding


First of all you need to draw out a rectangle approx 12cm across and 26cm in height.

Round off the edges so you have curved corners.

The next step is to draw round your rectangle shape (that you have rounded off) on the back of your 2 contrasting fabrics and cut out.  Here I have used a Michael Miller and a Blend cotton


I used Lamifix on the inside fabric as it is going to contain tea bags, some of which wont have their own wrapper.  Then following instructions, iron on to the front of the fabric.

Next, cut  a little sew on velcro and mark where it needs to be sewn, approximately an inch from the edge.  The main fabric it needs to be placed at the bottom on the right side of the fabric and the other piece needs to go at the top of the inside fabric, again on the right side of the fabric.  The picture below may make more sense.



Next, you need to cut out roughly some wadding (not too thick) so you can make a sandwich.


You will see I have used Wonder clips here as you can not pin the Lamifix.  When I first got these I thought I would’nt find them much use but they really are fab little things to have and really do come in handy.

You may also see on the picture that i have put a fold in the fabric which you will see why shortly.

This bit is now ready for the binding.  You need to cut a small piece for this section as we are only doing the short rounded end.  This will then be folded up to make the pouch



I have folded up the fabric and now made a thicker sandwich ready to finish off.  The tricky part here is to make sure all the layers are correctly placed and the same length so just spend a little time making sure they all line up (which they should).  You need to then cut your length of binding to run round the outside of your pouch (apart from the bottom folded section).  You need to fold over the end of binding you are starting with to create a neat finish and line up with the bottom corner you have now created.


Attach you bias binding but take care when going around your curves,and when you get to the other corner, finish off in the way you did at your starting point.

When you have finished adding your binding you should have something like this


I recommend then folding over so your velcro sticks and then just give a quick press as your pouch will be a little stiffer with the Lamifix inside.

There you have it 🙂  Once you have made one you will be making them for everyone.  They make a lovely, thoughtful gift especially if you pack with favourite teas.


Top Tips:

Make sure when you add the velcro you thread your thread ends back through and tie off.  Makes for a neater finish and you will know its secure.

If you use a fabric that has a directional pattern then you will need to modify the pattern otherwise when you flip over the front flap, it will be upside down.

Headband Sewing Tutorial

Ok I’m here again with our next tutorial.  A great headband


At this point I should point out I’m not the best at taking photos so please ask if I need to be any clearer 🙂

Just want to say that all the measurement can be changed this is just a guide so for example if you want a larger or smaller seam allowance thats absolutely fine.

You will need:






I began with a fat quarter of fabric, I used a heart fabric with Valentines just around the corner 🙂


I have made these before so thats where I have my measurements from ( I used an old headband I had for rough sizes)

I wanted the top part about 6cm in width so I measured 6cm on the fold of the fabric but the also added 1cm (total 7cm) so there would be a cm each side for seam allowance.


This meant the total width would be 14cm and the length I wanted was approx 39cm (again I added another 2cm for the seam allowance so the total was 41cm for the length)

I then went onto cut the piece where the elastic would fit underneath, I cut the length of 27cm (which included a 2cm seam allowance, 1cm each end) and the width was 5cm which included a 1cm seam allowance (5mm each side).

Next I went onto sew the long sides of each strip together and pressed out the seams. Make sure that the seam is in the centre as this will the go underneath  so you wont see it.


Turn so the fabric is the correct side and then press again so you are then ready to finish off.

Thread your elastic through the narrow strip you have made and sew it at each end

(I used  a little over 16cm of 3/4″ elastic)


Then we need to attach the 2 pieces of fabric

You need to place the larger piece face up (the seam will be on the table), the place face down (so right siide together) the smaller piece


Then you need to fold over the corner of the larger piece to cover the ends of the smaller piece.


Then the other.


You then need to sew in place.


Snip off the ends to tidy up.


Then do the same on the other side.

Now you need to flip the band so that the sewn sections go on the inside/underside


All your seams should be underneath so you have a nice neat finish at the top


And that’s it.


Dont forget the sizes above fit me so can easily be adjusted to what you need.

Best ever flapjack

I have to say, I’m not exaggerating when I say  that this really is the best flapjack.  I  think that anyone that has tried it has asked me for the recipe.  Only problem is it goes too quick.  This makes approx 15 squares, depending on how you cut it up.

If you’re looking for a healthy version, then this isn’t it.

You will need:

4tbsp golden syrup

7oz marge

4oz oats

6oz corn flakes

8oz sugar

4oz self-raising flour

1st job is to crush the corn flakes.  You can either crush by hand by crunching them in the bowl or pop them in a bag and hit with a rolling-pin (I just do it by hand).

Next mix your marge and syrup in a large pan (use a large pan as you can add the other ingredients to it)

While marge melting,  mix all your other ingredients together in a bowl.

When marge melted add all the dry mix and stir till everything is combined.

Tip mix on to a greaseproof lined tray and smooth out so its even all over.

Cook for approx 15 mins at 190.

When golden brown take out of the over and cut up, in the tray, *straight away *.  I stress straight away otherwise you will just end up with a big slab.

Leave to cool.


Next time I make some I will get a picture up but this is definitely a treat for every now and then.

Little girls skirt sewing tutorial

So here is my 1st ever tutorial, nice easy one to start with so please let me know what you think


You will need:


Fabric scissors


Tape measure/ruler



Firstly, don’t you think this fabric is just so sweet?  I have this down in part of the “Boys” section of fabric but I think it look perfect in this simple skirt.  Here I have used just two fat quarters of fabric, for this aged 3 skirt, so makes it an affordable, quick and easy make.

I used measurements from this book which is a brilliant book to have if you are interested in making clothes. For this skirt you use the width of the fabric (edge to edge) and just cut the length required for the length of the skirt so for example here I used the full width of the fabric and used the measurement of 34cm (waist to knee) but added on another 3cm for seam allowance each end (1.5cm top and bottom), the rest of the fabric can then be used for the waist band.

After you have cut your fabric, line up the edges of the fabric (short sides) and stitch straight down.


Do the same with the waist band and then press seams open.

I then overlocked the seam edges of the fabric on the skirt as I next attached the waistband.  Place both bits right sides facing each other  Here, you need to line up the seams of the skirt and waistband so that will the be the back of the skirt.  You can pin in place and pin the rest of the waist band so that it stays in place.  I prefer not to pin all the way round as it is a good fit (same length of fabric) and it saves time.  I used the fabric pattern as a guide to stay straight.  Once you have attached the two pieces together press and iron up both parts from the seam


Next I then pressed the fabric at the waistband down over this seam so that i could create the waistband casing for the elastic, and also tucked in the raw edge of fabric so that would be neatly sewn under when sewing the casing (approx 5mm under)


I also ironed up the hem so that i could sew these sections in one go rather than going too and fro from the iron.  When sewing around the waist band, I sew so from the front so I can make sure it is straight, as this will be what you see.  You also need to leave a gap around an inch and a half so you can get the elastic in – I do this at the back .


Here is the hem


You will see I have used a contrasting cotton here which I think looks great with a fun fabric (also you guys can see it 😉 )

So, were almost done.

I then needed to get the waist measurement for the elastic (again from the book above) and cut the elastic 2cm bigger, total of 58cm.  I cut it larger so I could sew it together when put through the casing.


I like to sew it a couple of times so I know its secure.

Now you need to sew up the casing, stretch out the fabric and place your needle down onto where you finished sewing for the casing (where you left the gap), sew along in a straight line to match up to the next point and finish off.


All that’s left to do now is overlock you hem underneath so the fabric doesnt fray and tidy up all your bits of thread.


Top tip

Use your iron – will save you pinning and unpicking (hopefully)

Hope that is useful and would love to know how you get on making yours

My first ever blog post

Hello there and welcome to anyone who is reading my 1st ever post.

I was going to start this new blog to run along my online fabric store, Fabric Heaven, in the New Year but I couldnt sleep tonight, so here I am!

This is all very new to me and I have been putting it off, telling myself I cant do it right now but now I’m typing, its actually quite exciting and I’m looking forward to my new blogging life.

I hope to share with you in the future some great tutorials, some of my favourite recipes, probably some funny comments from my children and some stuff about me.

Hope you all had a fab Christmas and will join in with me in the New Year with my new blog

P x